Fossil hunting expedition: Wye Downs, Kent

Date: 23/03/2019
Location: Coldharbour Lane Quarry, Wye, Kent, England
Formation: New Pit formation
Age: Upper Cretaceous (Turonian)
Grid ref: Ref: 51.18097°N, 0.96085°E
Status: SSSI (Site of Significant Scientific Interest)

I remember my Dad taking me fossil hunting on a beach somewhere on the South Kent coast as part of group when I was about six or seven. It has occurred to me at various points in my adult life that, given my immense love of palaeontology, it is deeply sad that I have never found an avenue to pursue my dream of hunting for fossils. OK, so I am not in a position to go out into the badlands of Montana and start digging for dinosaur bones, but Kent does have a wealth of exciting Jurassic and Cretaceous rocks that amateurs can explore, so one of my resolutions for 2019 has been to get out there and get my hands (and knees!) dirty!

Since I'm a beginner at fossil hunting, I made a start earlier in the year by joining UK Fossils, a society which publishes loads of free advice and guides as well as added content for subscribers. From here, I researched best practices, registered for some group excursions and purchased some basic equipment. The site features a handy index of excellent fossiliferous sites across the UK, where enthusiasts can safely practice their hobby, with some tips for locating sites and respectful treatment of the environment etc.

Thus armed with some background research, basic equipment, sturdy boots, waterproof clothing, etc I struck out for the pretty village of Wye for my first proper fossil-prospecting trip. My choice of location was largely one of convenience: Wye is only a 15-minute train ride from Canterbury and the New Pit site is located right underneath a handy memorial earthwork; namely a giant crown cut into the chalky hillside!

The Ordnance Survey app was useful for getting my bearings


The site just off Coldharbour Lane is an abandoned chalk pit and is designated as an SSSI. The chalk of the Wye downs is Upper Cretaceous (Turonian) in age and formed when the South East was largely covered by shallow seas (89.8-93.9 ma). So, whilst I was not holding out hopes for any dinosaur finds on my first fossil-hunting trip in thirty years, I was hoping that maybe I might come home with a Brachiopod or two...

Having made a brief comfort-stop upon arrival at the cosy 'Tickled Trout' pub, I made my way up to the New Pit site, which is only about a twenty-minute walk up from the station. Sadly, although I had picked a day which was forecast for reasonably good weather, I'm afraid I did get relentlessly drizzled on from about the moment I set out from the pub right up until I left! This was not ideal, as soggy conditions in a chalky pit are not much fun when you're scrabbling around in search of fossils, but fortunately the rain did not hamper my progress too much.

The New Pit site does not appear all that large when viewed from the opening at the bottom of the pit as you approach, but the steep cliff face curving all around provided far more ground than I could easily cover in the space of a day. I began my search by taking in the location and plotting my route up and across the side of the hill, where the chalk is exposed in-between bands of overgrown grassy patches. The grass seems to have grown over flat(ish) ledges stretching around the pit and these provided handy 'steps' with a far more reliable gripping surface than the (increasingly soggy!) chalk. Following the path of least resistance, I began by making my way up across the middle section of the cliff face and up towards the most northerly of two 'trenches' that have been cut down the chalk, exposing boulders and loose material. Whilst neither of these channels runs directly to the bottom of the pit, the Northern trench was just slightly more accessible, the south trench being very overgrown at the lower end with trees and shrubs.

The South trench is very overgrown with shrubbery, making it less passable.


At the top of the North 'trench'


However, my journey up to the North trench wasn't so much easier, as I was hampered by very thorny brambles as I made my way up. Whilst not large, these were big enough to present an occasional nasty surprise whenever I reached for a handhold. Fortunately I was wearing gloves, but these were not waterproof, I will be investing in a sturdier pair of gardening gloves for future expeditions.

Initially my aim was not so much to locate fossils as to chart a safe route up the side of the hill as far I felt I could safely go. Whilst not far from the road this site is isolated by trees and I was aware that if I were to fall and injure myself I could not rely on a passing dog-walker or motorist to find me for quite some time (I had, of course told my partner where I was going and what time I expected to be back, but still it pays to be careful). Still, on my way up I lost no time in scouting around casually for some finds. My efforts were rewarded with a piece of outer shell from what I could only assume was some kind of echinoderm? Whatever it was, this was my first fossil find and I was (I'm not ashamed to say) dead chuffed!

My first fossil! I think it's part of an echinoderm, but I may be wrong...


Having made my way quite a bit higher up the quarry than I had anticipated (I'm afraid of heights - probably something of a handicap in an intrepid palaeontologist!), I made my way back down the hill, following the same route as closely as possible, using landmarks such as some early-flowering violets and isolated shrubs (well, if they're going to threaten to tear my hands to pieces, they might at least make themselves useful).

At this point, after twenty minutes walk followed by half an hour of scoping out the hillside, I was in need of another comfort break, so I made my way back down and into the treeline south of the pit to locate a "shady spot" before breaking for some lunch. During this brief interlude I managed to agitate a magnificent Tawny owl, who swooped down past me, only a few feet away in a spectacular fly-by! This one of those rare jaw-on-the-floor moments for me, having never seen a wild Tawny owl before. This was a very special treat that I had not been expecting!

After stopping at the convenient picnic area on the north side of the pit for a snack, I set about planning the next phase of my afternoon, in which I planned to re-trace the route I took earlier, this time observing my surroundings more carefully. I took a few minutes to sketch out a map of the area, standing over the site of an old campfire in the middle of the grassy opening at the bottom of the pit as my viewpoint. Unfortunately I suffer from Reynaud's syndrome (another unfortunate handicap in outdoor pursuits), so wasn't able to stand around drawing for too long as my fingers were losing circulation (a drizzly English afternoon in March is not the cosiest environment). However, I made a reasonable note of my path for future reference.

My crude map made in the cold drizzle with Reynaud's fingers!


My second trip up the side of the quarry was slower, but surprisingly productive. I managed to locate two lovely brachiopods (or they may be bivalves - even with my fossil guide I have struggled to positively identify them). Delightfully, one is a cast and the other a mould - these were found lying only centimetres away from one another. This trip also yielded an exquisitely thin and fragile shark's tooth and several pebble-sized concentrations of chalk peppered with shark's teeth, although these were not practical to expose in the field.

I'm not sure what this piece of shell was from, but since it is well-embedded in the matrix, I left it in situ to be discovered by another adventurous fossil-hunter...

Two brachiopods (or bivalves?). Note to self: knowingly going in search of fossils in a chalk pit when you're wearing black jeans is a really, really bad idea!


I aimed throughout this endeavour to adhere to the fossil-hunter's code of tampering only with rocks that have broken from their bedding by their own accord, so there was no real need for my hammer and chisel, but the sharp end of the hammer did come in useful for breaking some larger pieces down for easier transportation. I took most of my more interesting finds for sentimentality's sake, but would be happy enough to leave most of the small invertebrate finds in situ on subsequent trips, unless I find something really special. Also, I did notice some litter around the site, which is a shame because it is otherwise a rather pretty little spot. I made efforts in making my way up the quarry not to dislodge too much scree and took all my lunch litter home with me.

All in all, I made my way back down towards the station feeling very pleased with my first fossil-hunting trip. I would thoroughly recommend Wye as a first site for beginners - even if you don't find anything, it's a fun site to scrabble over and the abundance of wildlife and pretty scenery means the very worst that could happen is you'll have a delightful day out in the country. And there's a very nice pub at the end of it!

References:
Toghill P, 2015, The Geology of Britain: An Introduction, Airlife publishing, Crowood Press Ltd
Walker C & Ward D, 2000, 'Dorling Kindersley Handbooks: Fossils', Dorling Kindersley ltd, Penguin Random House

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